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> PWTS Firmware 660 released - UPDATE 2

PWTS Firmware 660 released - UPDATE 2



We just released a new frimware for the Porsche 911 Turbo S wheel.

 

Please note that we can only recommend that you install the firmware if you experience problems. Updating the firmware of any device is always a risk if the update is interrupted somehow. Therefore we cannot take responsibility if something goes wrong.

Changes:

  • Improved precision around the center for some wheels (not all wheels were affected)
  • FF and SHO values adjustable in 10% steps


Please note that we recommend to update the RF dongle only if you have any problems. Try first to update only the wheel.

 

PLEASE READ THE MANUAL AND FOLLOW IT!!!

Please let me know your Windows system version here in this blog post in case you made the update with or without success.

 

UPDATE

If you have FF dropouts you must reduce the FF strength to 60. This is as strong as 100% in version 613. (Edit: This turned out to be false information)

We will release a new FW very soon to fix that.

I took off the 660 firmware in the meantime.

UPDATE 2

As we could not verify the issues with the new firmware I decided to upload ver 660 again. I also included the previous ver 614 so you can load the old FW as soon as you have issues and compare.

AttachmentSize
PWTS_rev660.zip327.26 KB
PWTSBootloader_rev614.zip194.5 KB
 

Replies - Comments

I've run the 660 firmware

I've run the 660 firmware update three times "successfully" and once I turn the wheel off and back on to check the firmware the tuning screen reads 613 each time. Yes, its pointing to the 660 updater files. What's the problem here?

deniolan's picture

I am trying to get my wheel

I am trying to get my wheel back to the original 614 firmware.

Thomas says that he has included it in the post, above... but while the ZIP file says 614, the .pw2 file says 613, and when you install it on the wheel it says 612.

Really.... where is the real 614 firmware so I can get my wheel back to it's original state and enjoy FORZA again?? I have 681 on there now and the force feedback is TERRIBLE - so weak.

I don't know what changed in 681, but it was not anything for the better where FORZA is concerned.

[quote]Nice update, cooler

[quote]Nice update, cooler in the wheel is not running so mutch now and it is not making so mutch noice now, and center of the wheel is so smooth now nice. had som problems with usb driver,use Win7 32bit,but i got it updatet at last.[/quote]

-What did you do?

I to run Win 7 32bit. But i can not get it to update. It says:

"PWTS connect faild. Please install the usb driver."

I´v tryed that but it says that I allready have the latest driver.
Anyone have a solution? I would be very glad.

/Niklas

Bonjour serait il possible d

Bonjour

serait il possible d avoir une video pour installe Firmware 660 je n y arrive pas mon system win7 64 bit
device not detected. verify device is in bootloader mode

cordialement

pascal

SUPERNOVADAVE's picture

vous devez installer le

vous devez installer le pilote USB qui est inclus dans le ensemble de firmware.
installer ce pilote avant d'exécuter le programme Bootloader

Bonjour Merci d avoir

Bonjour

Merci d avoir repondu le petit probleme je comprend rien en pc comment mettre les pilotes USB , vue que windows 7 les mes automatiquement.
Cordialement

Bonjour Merci d avoir

Bonjour

Merci d avoir repondu le petit probleme je comprend rien en pc comment mettre les pilotes USB , vue que windows 7 les mes automatiquement.
Cordialement

Off-centering with new FW.

Off-centering with new FW. Updated that 660 firmware. Calibrated the wheel in its software and in iRacing. FF felt somewhat smoother and more prescise. Then problem occured.

First I noticed it in iRacing, the wheel loses its center and is not staight when driving staight. If i go to calibrate it again, the RAW data doesn't show 0 like supposed to when fully turned to left. After recalibration it is again in center only for short time. Center point chances all the time when driving. After that i tested the wheel in Forza 3 and same off centering happened. Or it is also possible that it started after testing Forza 3.

Then i installed that 614 FW (or whatever it really is, filename suggests 613 and wheel shows 612). First I thought that removed the poblem, but now it can be noticed that sometimes when turning the wheel back to center the in-game wheel does some kind of twitching so it looks like it is constantly re-centering itself and correcting off-centering which maybe is still happening...? I still sometimes think I notice that wheel is off center but then it is again centered after next turn.

I didn't have noticed that with the old firmware that was in the wheel when i bought it. I think it was version 613. I would now like it back..

Is there still some developement happening with that firmware, should I wait for new one that would fix all the problems? Does anyone else having that off-centering problem after FW update?

Did you calibrate the wheel

Did you calibrate the wheel with the button combo or did you calibrate it in iRacing?

I calibrated it in its

I calibrated it in its property page (driver 1.04) and then in iRacing. But not with the button combo.

Please only use the button

Please only use the button combo for calibration. The wheel will be perfectly centered afterwards.

Doesnt remove the problem.

Doesnt remove the problem. If I calibrate it to center with button combo and iRacing and then rapidly move wheel from left to right several times it ain't straight anymore with 660 fw. If i then do button combo again it centers again but not for long. With 614 fw I feel litlle force notch and in game wheel twitch when it "re centers" itself. I can drive with 614 but it isn't perfect.

Hi Thomas.- Copy-Paste an

Hi Thomas.-
Copy-Paste an interesant information founded at FM3 forum (about pedals):

"Upon taking it apart I noticed that the wiring to the potentiometers were twisted like bread ties and from my classes at ITT i realized that this was probably causing a short and the fact that they are pulled taught on the potentiometers made them extra sensitive to vibration and movement of the base. So all i did was untwist the wiring by rotating the potentiometers counter clockwise and making sure no wires were really crossed i reassembled the unit and it works flawlessly now. This fix is very easy to do and anyone that bothers to take the pedals apart will see that they are very basic in design. I hope anyone that has this problem does the same thing because buying another set of pedals you will eventually get the same thing as its how they are assembled."

Really if this is the problem you would have to revise every pedals set before shipping because we wouldn´t have more problems. It would be better for Fanatec (you would save new shipments and pedal sets) and for us. Yesterday I tryed to revise one of my pedal set but I couldn't to close it. I am waiting for a new pedal set, but I hope the new one is revised before you send me.

Thank you, and I am only trying to help you...

I dont think the problem is

I dont think the problem is with the wires being twisted. I think it is with them not being held down securely. If they were glued down or something, it would keep them from sliding out of place and becoming off when you push the pedals. I think they only have slots that they sit in, but are very easy to move out of place.

Guys, thanks for the help on

Guys, thanks for the help on using the D pad for telemetry.
I will check out the telemetry and see what I have for bars and if nessary take a look at the the throttle dead zone. I am using the clubsport pedals which I didn't mention in my previous post. I don't notice this in F3, but in other games the brakes are weak and if I turn up the Potentiometer to get more braking it restricts the RPM's. I can find the sweet spot between the two but it sacrifices the braking some requiring a heavy foot.

Again, thanks for your expert advise!!

My clutch just snapped on

My clutch just snapped on the inside during a shift. No I didn't push too hard. I was coming from a stand still and just switching to 1st gear.

There is no resistance in the clutch pedal now. It is looser than the gas pedal now, and something broken inside is rolling around now. Just when I think I can't have more problems with it, it snaps loud enough for someone from the next room to hear...Sucks

Hope your pedal problem doesn't turn into this ^. Your problem is the same thing that was wrong with mine just with the clutch instead, before the total break.

I tried to update last night

I tried to update last night and wouldnt let me get to step 2. It just stopped on device removed. it showed this:
Device attached
Programming started...
Device successfully reset.
Device removed

and thats as far as it goes. it makes the sound of it being attached and removed too. what to do?

have similar probs... like

have similar probs...

like yours my wheel gets removed after completing Step 1. Although windows makes a sound, as if the wheel would be ceonnected, the update tool still says it isn't.

When i try to open step to anyway the cmd window opens but freezes.

HAve tried to kill as many windows processes as possible but still don't get any further, so my firmware is still corrupt and basically the wheel doens't make any response when it is put on power.

hope someone can help me.

So here is an Update:

1. My LED doesn't light up, when connected, but the Update Tool recognizes it, as "attached"

2. everything seems to work fine, till step 2. After Step 1,
"simple HID write" begins, but directly after this the device gets "removed".
Somehow it is still ready, when ich check it in the Win-Device-Manager. So i uninstall the driver first, then install it from the update folder again.
However the wheel remains removed, but i can launch Step 2.

3. When i do that die CMD Window opens, but the Update Tool freezes.

So if you ask me, it seems to be a problem of the usb driver.

I was having the exact same

I was having the exact same problem and couldn't figure it out. I thought I was loading the UPS Drivers but I wasn't. This it what would happen.

1)I put the wheel in Boot mode.
2)I opened the exe and it says Device attached
3)I load the PW1 file
4) everything seems to work fine, till step 2. After Step 1,
"simple HID write" begins, but directly after this the device gets "removed".
After this the "New Hardware Found" messages comes up and a dialog box ask me to load the hardware driver. That's where I was going wrong! I kept closing the dialog box instead of directing it to the UPS Driver folder that came with the Update Tool. Once the driver was loaded it said Device Attached and I clicked on the second button to load the PW2 file and it was successful.
My wheel still doesn't feel as smooth with Forza 3 as it once did but when I tried the wheel with Shift and GT Evolution it works great.

thx for your

thx for your replies.

@scorpion, see that is the funny thing about it, when i reach step two, no pop-up appears and windows exactly doen't ask me to install new hardware because, for some reason, it still recognises th wheel in win device manager but doens't so in the update tool.

i guess i just give up on this one so far...

(tried it on three different systems by now: Win 7 64 bit, Win Vista 32 Bit and Win XP 32 Bit, all the same probs)

Dom, have you tried using a

Dom, have you tried using a different USB socket? The New Hardware Dialog box should pop up on a different socket.

yes i did indeed. tried all

yes i did indeed. tried all the four slots on my icy box an two different on the side of the tower, though i didn't try one of the mainboard itself. But the Hardware installtion pop up didn't showed up anyway.

I also tried two different computers with all their usb ports. One of them running vista 32bit and one witz Win XP 32 bit.

I guess the only other way

I guess the only other way is to use the Add/Remove Hardware option from the control panel and install the USB Drivers manually. Have you tried that?

I am not sure what causes

I am not sure what causes these problems. On one PC we had the update tool working on one partition and on the other partition it did not work. I can just recommend to try it on a different PC

I had several problems. But

I had several problems.

But I restarted the PC, stopped more processes which were not necessary through Windows Task Manager between each attempt and restarted the upgrade process each time.
It got further every time in the upgrade process and finally it succeeded.

Finally I restarted the PC + wheel and connected to another USB port to get the wheel working after the upgrade.

I will admit I am way behind

I will admit I am way behind the tech curve with firmware and weather I need to up date my turbo S wheel. I am hoping someone can help me out here, as I have read the manual and followed this blog for 8 months and can't find an answer to this question. I only use xbox 360 mainly playing forza #3 and I don't have any issues with the wheel and it preforms very well. Recently went back and fired up Nascar 08. Before purchsing the turbo S, I was using Logitech FX on Nascar and I was able to win at almost all tracks in at the highest skill level, but now can't seem to get there with the Turbo S. I am quit sure I lack overall speed, meaning at full throttle I am not getting game speed.
I have read about checking the pedals for percentages, but am not sure how to do this, or if it applys when using xbox 360.

Any Suggestion will help
Thanks

Reloaded's picture

Unfortunately, Thomas has

Unfortunately, Thomas has already mentioned that updating the firmware for the wheel will NOT fix the problem with the pedals... The same problem that I am having as well. Do as the others already have mentioned in Forza 3 to get the telemetry and it will show what's going on with your pedals. If you feel like there is a bit of a "deadzone" when going straight in Forza, or a bit of a "hump" that you have to get over when going from center to the left or the right, then the updated firmware will take care of this. I updated the firmware and I have to say that the wheel feels MUCH better with Forza 3 than it did before the update.

thomas what you doing about

thomas what you doing about the pedal problem? I ordered another set of standard pedals with my 50 euro coupon after having this problem, then decided to take my standard pedals apart. I found 2 stray ty-raps/cable tys under the brake potentiometer! removed them put it back together and worked fine for about 2 days (i then cancelled the order) then the same problem! every depress of the brake got weaker and weaker until only 60% braking was achievable. The accelerator does the same but no to the same extent! After pulling the ps2 cable out and plugging back in it was good for another 2-3 laps on forza. I have now just ordered the clubsport pedals but i fear like everyone else its not actually the pedals that are the problem. Any chance you can sort this out??

Just got my clubsport pedals

Just got my clubsport pedals and quite frankly they are fantastic! fixed my pedal problem immediately!! they look really nice and they operate so smoothly it makes the other pedals look like a joke! anyway thought i would mention it. fanatec all is forgiven!! wish i ordered them the 1st time round!

In Forza 3 (any race) push

In Forza 3 (any race) push up or down on the dpad to activate the telemetry screens. There will be bars on the left side which indicate throttle and brake. If you can get a full bar then you will know you are at 100% throttle.

 
 
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