The next video manual is about the ClubSport Pedals V2.
Especially the procedure to fill up the oild is important. You must not use too much or not enough oil to make it work properly.
i will be ordering these pedals in the next week or so. are they in stock' i am in usa?
Just wanted to come back here and say the wheel hasn't made that huge crack/snap noise since that might I emailed fanatec with a couple of videos they did get back to me the next day :) , I'm just glad I got it on record that it did happen and when/ if it happens agin I'll just include new video and go from there , thanks Thomas and fanatec ,
I am having a similar issue with my CSW base, already contacted Fanatec and sent them my video. After two days of use the wheel started to make a very creepy sound when turning it to the left especially when a lot of force comes to the wheel in left hand turns, it's constantly noticeable on Ovals. You can also feel it in the wheel. Interestingly enough there is no such creepy sound when turning it to the right.
I would be interested in how your crack/snap noise does actually sound like. Could you provide me with a link to one of your videos? If you are interested in my video, I will provide you the link as well.
Mine hasn't done it again ...... yet but I record the wheel being turned on now every time I do so , it was so damn loud and violent I checked to see it didnt break the glass on top lol , 700 bucks + I expect this thing to run flawlessly for years and years ,
Ok, so here is the link to the video I have made: http://youtu.be/hOSt-dh6pj4
Please watch it and tell me that the creaking sounds of your wheel were as loud as mine. What have you done in order to remedy this issue?
I just turned my CSW/ BMW rim on and when it was doing the spinning thing and showing #s 32/16 on the way back to the right it spun like full freaking force and let loose with a big O snap and the end of right hand direction next time I turn the wheel on I'll have my iPhone in hand to record that was pretty freakin uncool and it made me jump and skip a beat Fanatec employes/Thomas you can look though my old post on here to see my order numbers 700+dollars means this thing should work right !
It doesn't return to center now ! Not when you turn it on and not when you've wrecked on Iracing and teleport back to the pits, when you put it in gear to pull off the wheel is still facing the direction you wrecked in its not returning to center , I recentered with tuning button and the joy sticks like it say to do in that joke of a manuel fanatec has of YouTube , I'm about to be borderline pissed right now who should I contact support Lofl or the brain trust at fanatec not even a week old !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I don't get this snapping part, but otherwise, I don't see nothing wrong. In case of CSW and BMW rim, it centers itself only when not connected to computer after turning on the wheel. If connected, it may turn whatever position, doesn't matter, all is still correct in driver window. Also while gaming, it only tries to center itself while driving. If you are standing still it doesn't just like a real car, if you want it to be centered, turn the wheel to its center position.
I would understand a pissed post if after contacting tech support you would get no answer or an insatisfactory response, but coming here moaning about a damaged wheel and asking who should you contact when it's all right there in http://www.fanatec.de/html/index.php?id=310&lang=en is just lame, not to mention off-topic garbage.
In order to help us to process your request quickly you will get a higher priority if you follow these rules:
•...include a copy of your invoice (pdf) or order confirmation (e-mail) so that we have all order data
•...write down the product name (s) and serial number (s) (can be found on the bottom of the product)
•...do not send to multiple e-mail addresses . The request will only be processed if firstname.lastname@example.org is the only recipient
•...make sure you always include the full email history with every e-mail you send to support.
•...make a video of your problem. Please send it directly by Email or u pload the video to www.mediafire.com . Please try to keep it small! If we can verify the issue t his will allow us to send you a replacement unit without waiting for a return of the product. Please do not use youtube or a similar service – we will need to download the file easily!
•...make sure you have a problem which is not described in the FAQ
•...read the manual. Sounds trivial but 20% of requests could be avoided if the user reads the manual.
•...list the following info
◦Tested operating systems or game consoles on which the problem occurs
◦Tested games which show the problem
Only if you follow all of these rules, your request will be handled fast and smooth. Thank you.
Please send your e-mail to email@example.com .
I've had warranty issues myself in the past and I can guarantee you that tech support is impecable and efficient when things are treated through the proper channels. Good luck!
You Aint Gonna Get Nothing Free for Brown Nosing... Im just sayin...I would follow directions but I would Also be Pissed Off Too...his post is Not lame... I understand his Frustrations. But it will all work out contact support and im sure they will take care of you. make sure you check the wheel could be something simple that ur over looking... I get nervouse if my wheel makes abnormal clicks or noises also.
700+ dollars buddy of course I'll jump through some more hoops :) nice attitude by the way !
jump through some more hoops won't solve your problem, will only make you loose time and does'nt bring anything useful or new to the community. Hence my reference to beeing off-topic here. Other then that, I would also be upset if after a week a 700 dollar product would present some malfunction, but it's natural that a percentage of the wheels delivered has some flaw - that's why tech support is there. Pls don't get me wrong, it's just that I think its only fair if things are treated through the propper channels and topics, and this topic doesn't seem the right place to me. It's more useful to post here comments putting some pressure on Thomas to release the firmware and keep us up to date with the news.
My first G25 was malfunctioning out of the box, I had to return it to the store where I'd bought it and wait around 15days for a new one. The replacement unit worked flawless for about 6 years, and is right now in it's box in case my 2 weeks new 500€ CSR Elite let's me down. But I am absolutely sure that if that would be the case tech support would fix my problem in no time, as they did when my CSP's brake pedal started malfunctioning in the last week of the 2 years warranty: they answered my email the next day saying that they would send a new load cell and a new PCB just in case, and after 3 or 4 days UPS was delivering the parts at my doorstep.
I had to replace my first CSR Elite wheel due to its mic port falling out and Fanatec made me pay the $45 shipping cost, that's NOT COOL!!!!
Is any 1 using the CSPv2 pedals & what are your thoughts on the New Brake and Clutch feel vs the. Original pedals...Personally me I Love the CSPv1's as I use the Clutch pedal for the Hand /E Brake in game like Dirt3... U cant do that with the CSPv2 pedals because of the new clutch pedal system. But Im really curiouse to know if the shock on the brake adds to the quality of the pedals.
The CSPv2 pedals are really good, but then the v1's were really good too...for me there was a vast improvement in feel between the 2 but my v1's were getting quite tired and worn out. So to sum up if your V1's are in perfect working order it probably isn't worth upgrading although if you did you could use the parts from your V1's to make a decent hand brake.
I upgraded from CSP v1's which i have been using for 2 years to V2's
Functionally and performance wise there is not much difference, there is though a clearly noticeable improvement in realism and looks.
With the right oil in the pedal damper and filled the right way the brake feels really nice, much more realistic than the V1's and any pedal out there which dosent use a hydralic damper. It really adds to the realism.
The clutch is also nice and does add to the realism as well, it clearly feels different and more realistic than V1's. The brake though is the biggest improvement IMO. They also look much better than the V1's, especially when tweaked a bit :)
I cannot think of any other pedal set which would feel as realistic as the CSP V2's
I also inverted my V2's which made them feel even better!
Here are some pictures:
Here are pictures of modded wheel and pedals hosted elsewhere. Sorry, didnt know that you needed an account at WMD to browse the forum.
CSP V2's in peices:
Pedals and modded Elite wheel:
CSR Elite with OMP Superleggera 320mm rim and all stock electronics and buttons (weight is 1.1 kg in total, even less than the stock Elite rim and half of the BMW GT2 rim, though double the price + lots of work):
Inverted pedals ready for race:
"Rig" shot from my actual view of driving with instruments within the rim (before inverting the pedals):
That Is A Sweet set Up!!! question does the Rim have the vibration Motors in it or did you have to Leave them out?
Thanks mate! :)
I removed the vibration motors, but it would have been very easy to install them on the back of the wheel spokes if i wanted to. In my opinion the vibration is too slow to start up and too weak (even on the stock rim where they are mounted inside the grips on each side). The vibrations from e.g. rumble strips on tracks or on grass does not come from vibration motors but from the main FF motors. For ABS feedback (which would have been good) its too slow to help with finding the edge of traction (better to listen for tire squeal which is instant).
FF with the new rim is much crisper than the stock CSR/Elite rim as its basically 100% metal between the FF motors and your hands except for a thin layer of racing suede on the rim grip itself. Im using the same FF levels as I did the with the stock CSR rim, even though this is 320mm vs 300mm, with the same amount of force.
I also used the stock rim hub and connections so I can easily switch between this and the Formula rim for the Elite when it comes out :)
can you tell me where you got the Bas & Brake pedal plates? I would like to order some. Also If you dont mind can you tell me how many lift in inches you had to use with the spacer bolt on the back of the pedals I would like to invert my pedals also.
Pedal plates are very easy to find and quite cheap, just search on ebay for "Pedal plates" and if you want any particular brand like OMP, Sparco, Momo etc.
There are also pedal plates for like Porsche, BMW etc as well (some original and some copies).
Easiest is if you find some pre-drilled with roughly the same spacing as the stock holes in the CSP's
The measurements for the pedal height and angle:
1. Top angle spacer bar 20cm/7.9inch (current distance 16cm/6.3inch)
2. Space between floor plate and bottom of pedal base = 13cm/5.1inch)
This was measures to be equal to my high end sports car and feels great
Pretty sweet.....feel free to make me one : )
Could you post that pic in a universal format so we can all see it? Thanks.
Awesome! Can you provide more info on the steering wheel mod?
To put it very simply, I took the stock Elite rim into pieces and used the PCB with re-wired buttons on the back of the after market rim.
Made an adaptor plate that could fit between the 6x70mm after market bolt pattern and the stock rim hub.
This was not easy and needed a lot of precision metal custom construction and electronics work (some quite hard, for example the D-Pad is not yet working properly and I have ordered a new PCB from Fanatec to take a new one from and try to re-do the installation by lifting it from the PCB without damaging it and installing on the custom rim D-Pad holder). It took me about 1 week during my vacation working a few hours each day. It was also quite expensive with the premium/lightweight rim and soon to come paddle shifters. I spent almost 2x Elite wheels cost on the complete rim mod itself incl the paddle shifters mentioned below (not yet installed).
One major challenge is to get paddle shifters on the wheel, either you need to custom build you own mechanism (cheapest but hard to get good function and reliability) or buy a real racing car paddle shifter kit (which are expensive). I have ordered a paddle shifter kit from Japan which installs behind the rim with carbon fibre paddles. That itself cost almost as much as new Elite wheel. I didnt find any much cheaper options either. The particular model I ordered is though used by the Formula D and D1 world champion 2011 which is kind of cool :)
Can you pls upload your pictures elsewhere? Because in wmdportal they are not visible even after registering...
I cant see the pics either...I thought it might have been just me...
WOW! What a nice wheel! And the photos are awesome too... love to detail, i like :-))
Fantastic work , I see you also modded the wheel very well!!!
Today is the day ! Apperntly my base & rim are on truck for delivery TODAY !!!!!
I'm stoked ! But had a question about firmware does it come with firmware 32 or do I have to download and install ? If I do have to install can anyone point me towards a video on how to install 32 firmware ? I'm currently chillin outside waiting for my UPS guy lol thanks for info on firmware question ,